Von Thusis nach Chur

“(…) I will now returne unto that part of the Grisons country where-hence I digressed, even to Tossana, where I entred a fourth valley which is called by the same name as the other immediately behind it, namely the valley of Rhene, because that river runneth through this also where it inlargeth it selfe in a farre greater bredth then in the other valley. Also some doe call it the valley of Curia from the citie of Curia the metropolitane of the country, standing in the principall and most fertil place thereof.
I departed from Tossana about seven of the clocke in the morning, the three and twentieth of August beeing Tuesday, and came to Curia tenne miles beyond it, which is the head citie of the country (as I have before said) about one of the clocke in the afternoone.
I observed many wooden bridges in this valley, made of whole pine trees (as those of Savoy) which are rudely clapped together. One of those bridges is of a great length, about one hundred and twenty paces long, and sixe broad, and roofed over with timber. Also it hath foure very huge wooden pillars in the water. This bridge is made over the river Rhene, about five miles on this side the citie of Curia, over the which every stranger that passeth payeth money.
I observed this country to bee colder by halfe then Italie, the ayre beeing heere as temperate as with us in England.
The abundance of peares and apples in many places of Rhetia, especially about the citie of Curia, is such that I wondred at it: for I never saw so much store together in my life, neither doe I thinke that Calabria which is so much stored with peares, can yeeld more plenty for the quantitie or space of ground, then this part of Rhetia doth. Their trees being so exceedingly laden, that the boughes were even ready to breake through the weight of the fruite. (…)”

(aus: Coryat`s Crudities, hastily gobled up in five moneths travells in France, Savoy, Italy, Rhetia commonly called the Grisons country, Helvetia alias Switzerland, some parts of high Germany and the Netherlands; newly digested in the hungry aire of Odcombe in the county of Somerset, and now dispersed to the nourishment of the travelling members of this kingdome)

Vergeblich suchten wir in den Crudities nach einer Beschreibung der Via Mala, die Coryat – so ziemlich zu ihren wildesten Zeiten – auf seiner Alpenrheinreise passiert haben müßte. Der Marktflecken Tossana (Thusis) bleibt ebenso nahezu unbeschrieben wie die übrigen Dörfer des Hinterrheins, erst Chur erfährt ausführlichere Notizen (die wir evtl noch hier vorstellen). Von Chur geht Coryats Reise den Rhein abwärts bis Sargans, von wo er über Walastat (Walenstadt) nach Zürich abbiegt, um erst wieder bei Basel auf den Strom zu treffen. Seine Ausführungen zu diesem Alpenrheinabschnitt bleiben dürftig, viel mehr als Schätzungen der Wiesenflächen stehen nicht zu Buche, doch vermerkt Coryat, daß er ab Sargans bis tief in die Niederlande fortan lückenlos jeden Reisetag mindestens einen Rheinwein kredenzt bekam.